Costa Rica Guide
BY
PAUL GLASSMAN

Travel Agencies

Can you travel in Costa Rica, book your own hotels or show up unannounced, find good food and fun things to do? Can you change your plans to stay longer in a nifty place, take off with new friends, or follow your whims?

Of course you can! After all, flexibility and changing plans can be part of the fun and enrichment of travel. And you've picked the right book to show you exactly how to do it.

And let's face it. Many travel packages for Costa Rica are outrageously overpriced, for no other reason than that the country is popular. Numerous operators of small hotels complain that their customers are gouged by travel agents. Most U.S. agencies simply re-sell the services of a Costa Rican operator, and take no responsibility if an unsatisfactory hotel or tour is substituted.

If you are going to Costa Rica at the busiest times—Christmas, New Year's, Easter—you should have hotel reservations in hand; at other times, try to book your first few days of accommodation before you arrive.

If you have difficulty getting around, or have small children, you should consider reserving some or all of your accommodations.

Remote national parks, such as Tortuguero, and jungle lodges, could require advance booking of a room-and-transport package. Hotel space at Quepos and Manuel Antonio can be extraordinarily tight, though sometimes dollars in hand speak louder than reservations.

But in general, with more and more hotels opening, you can almost always find a place to sleep with no advance notice.

Of course, it's always best to try to call at least a day before your intended arrival, in order to make sure that your room is clean and ready. Most hotels and travel services have personnel who can understand basic English.

You can write, as well, but my experience is that Costa Ricans, like many Latin Americans, push written communication to the bottom of a handy pile—if your letter arrives at all. They prefer to deal with a voice or a person. A fax has a better chance of being answered than a letter, especially if your arrival with dollars is imminent. E-mail often brings no reply, or a reply referring you to a Web site that might or might not have the information you're looking for.

And some hotels, for whatever reason, just do not respond to inquiries from individuals, or take forever to respond. Where you see the words "book through travel agents" as part of a hotel description in this book, a direct contact will probably be fruitless.

I just told you that you don't have to. Now I'll tell you why it might be wise in your particular case.

Some travel agencies and wholesalers reserve blocks of rooms for their clients. This could leave you out in the cold in the more popular parts of the country, where accommodations are in short supply.

Travel agencies have buying power, contacts, access to cheap group air fares. (But sometimes, they impose high markups and service charges.)

Sometimes travel agents are up-to-date on the newest hotel, the latest adventure, the most knowledgeable guides. (But sometimes they know no more than you, and simply pass on requests to a contact in San José.)

Through travel agents, you can join a group of like-minded persons (birders, naturalists, divers) to enhance your experience and make new friends.

For many travellers, it's worthwhile to have everything arranged in advance in order to enjoy every minute of precious vacation time.

While independent travellers say that they're more open to adventures and intercultural contacts, the fact is, you're more likely to interact with the locals if your basic needs have been foreseen and are being reliably taken care of. Looking for culinary adventures or the perfect lodging place can be fun, or it can be time-consuming, frustrating, and a waste of your valuable vacation time. Some of my most memorable experiences, in Costa Rica and elsewhere, have come on group trips, and excursions that could not easily have been arranged without a travel professional.

Throughout this book I mention travel agents and specialists who can help tailor a trip or provide you with special services you just can't arrange without help (like taking a diving trip along the Pacific coast).

• By all means, try a local travel agency first before you shop around at a distance.
• Compare prices and ask for references.
• Don't be afraid to take charge, and to look for a travel planner who will keep your interests in mind.
• Consider itineraries that make all the arrangements for difficult-to-reach areas, and allow some flexibility elsewhere.

Avoid packages that involve successive day trips from San José through the same scenery, accompanied by the same canned patter from different guides.

Here is a partial list of companies that specialize in travel to Costa Rica in one way or another, or that run tours to Costa Rica with some frequency in collaboration with operators in San José. I regularly add or delete travel agencies in new editions, so if you have a good or bad experience, by all means let me know.

Adventures Costa Rica, 201 South Wallace Avenue, Bozeman, MT 59715, tel. 406-586-7314, fax 586-0995.

McTravel Services Inc., 20378 Fraser Hwy., Langley, BC V3A 4G1, Canada, tel. 604-530-5855, fax 530-4632 (operated by a Canadian and a Costa Rican).

Blyth & Co., 13 Hazelton, Toronto, Ontario M5R 1G2.

Costa Rica Experts, 3166 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago, IL 60657, tel. 773-935-1009.

Mariah Wilderness Expeditions, P.O. Box 70248, Point Richmond, CA 94807, tel. 800-4-MARIAH or 510-233-2303, fax 510-233-0956, www.mariahwe.com

This is a white-water rafting company that grew to become a comprehensive travel planner for Costa Rica, with trips including sea kayaking, mountain biking, and environment-oriented excursions.

Overseas Adventure Travel, 625 Mount Auburn Street, Cambridge, MA 02138, tel. 617-876-05333.

Preferred Adventures, One West Water St., St. Paul, MN 55107, tel. 612-222-8131, fax 612-222-4221.

Quester's Tours and Travel, 257 Park Ave. So., New York, NY 10010, tel. 212-251-0444.

Special Expeditions, 720 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019.

Tours of Exploration, 1111 Melville St., Vancouver, BC V6E 3V6, tel. 800-690-7887, fax 604-683-1911, info@toursexplore.com. Has trips based at community eco-lodges in northwestern Costa Rica.

Voyagers International, P. O. Box 915, Ithaca, NY 14851, tel. 800-633-0299 or 607-273-4321, fax 607-273-3873, www.voyagers.com.

Programs, emphasizing natural history, are run by a Costa Rican travel planner who is also a biologist.

Wilderness Travel, 1102 9th Street, Berkeley, CA 94710

Worldwide Adventures, 36 Finch St., Toronto, Ontario M4W 9Z9.

In general, I don't recommend that you deal directly with travel agencies in Costa Rica from your home, mainly because there is nothing in the way of consumer protection.

However, because of the popularity of Costa Rica, some reputable agencies soon fill the blocks of room and tour space they reserve; others charge unconscionable markups, or don't take the time to take your interests and needs into account.

Here are some other agencies that are easily accessible through the Web, for comparison of programs, prices, and to purchase travel services:

http://www.rainforesttours.com/
http://www.costaricabureau.com/

If you're not having luck with a local agent, consider a call to one of the following agencies.  Tikal Tours and others have good reputations, and personnel who can deal with you in English. A telephone call, fax, or e-mail to reserve day trips could be worth the cost. 

American Express/TAM, Calle 1, Avenidas Central/1 (P. O. Box 1864-1000), tel. 256-0203, fax 257-4345. info@tamtravel.com.

Blanco Travel Service, Avenida Central, Calles 7/9, tel. 222-1792.

Henchoz Tours, Calle 5, Avenidas 3/5 (P. O. Box 883-1002), tel. 257-8866, fax 233-9357.

Cacts Travel Agency, Avenida 3 bis no. 2845, tel. 221-2928 or 221-6546, fax 221-8816. This, one of my favorite little organizations, grew from the ground up by providing exactly what the clients of the hotel Cacts were looking for. It's not right downtown, but nearby, so if you have trouble getting what you want elsewhere in the way of rafting, snorkeling, trekking or day trips, give them a call.

Intertur, Avenida 1, Calles 3/5, tel. 233-1400. Advertises discount tours.

Tropical Pioneer, P. O. Box 29-2070 Sabanilla, tel. 225-4735, fax 253-4687. Rafting

Turismo Creativo, 7 Calle, Avenidas Central/1 (P. O. Box 1178-1011), tel. 233-1374, fax 233-0368.

Swiss Travel Service, Hotel Irazú (P. O. Box 7-1970-1000), tel. 282-4898, fax 282-4890, swisstvl@sol.racsa.co.cr.

Tikal Tours, Avenida 2, Calle 7 (P.O. Box 6398-1000), San José, tel. 223-2811, fax 223-1916. advita@sol.racsa.co.cr.


You'll probably book where it's most convenient, generally at your hotel. Bear in mind that agencies work on commissions, and will sometimes try to sell you the most expensive trip, no matter what your interest, e.g., a flying tour to Tortuguero, instead of a more leisurely canal-boat excursion (if that's what you're after).

If you have trouble getting what you want, do not hesitate to contact a trip operator directly. You can even consider calling from abroad—most have personnel who speak English.

Among more specialized travel agencies and trip operators are:

Aventuras Naturales, Avenida Central, Calles 33/35, tel. 225-3939, fax 253-6934,800-514-0411, avenat@racsa.co.cr. Rafting, fishing, jungle canopy excursions.

Ríos Tropicales, Calle 38, Paseo Colón/Avenida 2 (P. O. Box 472-1200, Pavas), tel. 233-6455, fax 255-4354. Rafting and kayaking excursions.

Costa Rica Adventure Tours (Río Colorado Lodge), Hotel Corobicí (P. O. Box 5094-1000), tel. 232-4063, fax 231-5987, has packages that include jungle cruises along the Tortuguero Canal and Sarapiquí and San Juan rivers, and tarpon fishing in the Caribbean region.

Horizontes, Calle 28, Avenidas 1/3 (P. O. Box 1780-1002), tel. 222-2022, fax 255-4513. horizont@sol.racsa.co.cr. www.horizontes.com. Bus and cycling trips to national parks.

OTEC Tours (Organización de Turismo Estudiantil Costarricense), Calle 3, Avenidas 3/5, Calles tel. 257-7108, fax 233-2321, specializes in travel for Costa Rican students. You can use their services if you're a student, a teacher, or are under 26 years of age, and provide two photos, though their prices are only marginally lower than elsewhere. Their offerings include one-day diving and equestrian trips.

Sertur, Avenida 5, Calles 1/3, tel. 257-2363. In addition to the usual run of excursions, Sertur has day river trips, birding excursions to Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge (a little-visited wetlands area in the San Carlos plain), and a multi-day beach and marsh tour along the Pacific coast.

Cotur, Calle 36, Paseo Colón/Avenida 1 (P._O. Box 1818-1002, San José), tel. 233-0133, fax 233-0778, cotur@sol.racsa.co.cr. Three-day, two-night tours on the Miss Caribe to Tortuguero National Park by bus and canal boat. They also have mountain and coastal fishing programs. Make sure you get a written confirmation.

Cruceros Mawamba, P. O. Box 10050, tel. 223-2421, and Mitur (Hotel Ilan-Ilan), Paseo Colón, Calles 20/22 (P. O. Box 91-1150), tel. 255-2031, fax 255-1946, have Tortuguero packages similar to Cotur's. Mitur also has an overnight trip to Lake Arenal, including a boat trip.

Rancho Leona, tel. 761-1019, in the village of La Virgen on the Sarapiquí river, organizes jungle kayaking excursions. See page 326 for details.

Jungle Trails (Los Caminos de la Selva), Calle 38, Avenidas 5/7 (P. O. Box 5941-1000, San José, tel. 255-3486, fax 255-2782), organizes rain-forest and mountain hikes, rafting, and tree-planting excursions.

Calypso Tours, Arcadas building by the Gran Hotel (P. O. Box 6941-1000 San José), tel. 256-2727, fax 233-0401. Cruises to islands in Gulf of Nicoya and to Cocos Island; diving, and trips to Monteverde. The gulf cruise is perhaps the most highly rated day trip in Costa Rica. Seaventures, an associated company, takes participants sailing across the Gulf of Nicoya, and offers sail charters.

Day trips in the Gulf of Nicoya are also offered by Bay Island Cruises, P. O. Box 145-1007, tel. 258-3536, fax 239-4404.

I do not recommend Costa Rica Expeditions (despite published claims otherwise).


Among the usual tour offerings and what you might pay:

San José city tour, $25 and up, three hours

Irazú volcano and Cartago, $40, half day.

Day trip to Arenal Volcano, $80; overnight, $200-$250.

Rain forest canopy tour, $70.

Day trip to Carara Biological Reserve or Braulio Carrillo National Park or Guayabo National Monument, $80.

Lankester Gardens and Orosi valley, $30 and up, half day, $45 full day.

Orosi Valley and Irazú volcano, with visit to coffee farm, $50 and up, full day.

Poás volcano, $35, half day.

Heredia, Alajuela and Sarchí, $30 and up, half day.

Braulio Carrillo Park and Limón: a drive-through trip, with some hiking, and explanation of flora, $85.

"Traditional night"—basically a meal with a view for $35.

Ride on part of the old "Jungle Train" route, $80.

Bus to Puntarenas and boat cruise in the Gulf of Nicoya, $85.

Trips to beach resorts, $100 per day.

Rafting on the Reventazón River, $85.

Jungle tours by bus to Limón, then by canal launch to Tortuguero reserve, returning by air, or boat and bus, $200 to $400.

Monteverde reserve, two nights, $200 and up.

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