Costa Rica Guide by Paul Glassman
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TRAVEL BY BUS
There are several tiers of bus service in Costa Rica. Depending on where you are in the country and how far you're going, getting around by bus can be pleasant and comfortable, tolerable, or—if you're not prepared—an ordeal.
Service between towns in the Central Valley is provided in large buses similar to those used on the city lines in San José. These generally have padded seats, which are closer together than those in comparable American buses, but comfortable enough for the distances involved.
Fares on suburban routes are generally fixed, no matter how far you travel. Fare cards are usually posted near the driver's seat.
Buses in the Central Valley may be boarded either at their terminals, or at bus stops, which are marked by shelters, rectangular signs, or short yellow lines painted along the edge of the road. Pay the driver, choose a seat, and enjoy the sights along the way.
Buses operating on the major highways between San José and the far points of the country are roughly comparable to Greyhound buses in the United States. They may be older, and lack air conditioning and lavatories, but they are generally well-cared-for, and mechanically sound.
Drivers of long-distance buses try to maintain the maximum legal speed, even on winding roads. Bus crews are ready for such side effects as nausea with plastic bags (comforting). Prepare yourself with motion sickness pills if you're susceptible.
Tickets for long-distance buses may be purchased in advance, and this is recommended for weekend travel. If you try to board a long-distance bus along its route, it might or might not stop—there's no fixed rule. Try to select a waiting place where the driver will see you well in advance and have a chance to slow down. Ask a handy local for advice.
Buses operating in rural areas outside the Central Valley are of an entirely different breed. Most are similar to American school buses. Some in fact are old school buses, right down to the yellow paint. (Old school buses never die. They just go to Central America.) Seats are stiff, with minimal padding, designed for small people traveling short distances.
Rural buses stop frequently to let out and pick up passengers, as well as chickens, cardboard boxes full of merchandise, and whatever else has to move. Add poor roads and steep grades, and a trip of fifty kilometers could take a couple of hours. Many a passenger has to stand in a crowded aisle, for there is often no other way to go.
Fares on all buses in Costa Rica are low, generally less than two cents (U.S.) per kilometer.
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