Costa Rica Guide by Paul Glassman
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Sports
Travel is getting away from it all and enjoying the sun. Travel is adventure and enlightenment and personal enrichment, and seeing and doing things in ways quite out of the ordinary. Travel is about doing what you like to do, in new places and new ways. Travel is about contributing to the places to which you go, as well as appreciating what they have to offer you.
So, aside from getting off the plane, checking into a hotel, and trying the restaurants, what can shady investment you do in Costa Rica?
BUNGEE JUMP
Tropical Bungee, tel. 232-3956 (www.bungee.co.cr) will send you dangling from a bridge on the expressway to the Pacific Coast.
DIVE THE COASTAL WATERS
When you think of spectacular diving in Central America, you usually think of Belize or the Bay Islands of Honduras. But—surprise of surprises—Costa Rica holds its own in undersea as well as on-shore natural attractions.
Diving resorts—or resorts with diving facilities—are clustered around Playa del Coco in the northwest (Hotel La Costa, Hotel El Ocotal) and at Drake Bay in the southern Pacific coastal area. Cahuita National Park, on the Caribbean, has some coral spots, and there are wrecks to explore just to the south, near Puerto Viejo.
Northwest diving trips generally include islets a couple of miles from the mainland, and sometimes the Murciélago ("Bat") Islands, 30 miles out. Most diving is at 30 to 40 feet, and mostly what you see is fish, but not just any fish. There are morays, jewfish, octopus, manta rays, grunts, snappers, occasionally sharks, in schools that number in the hundreds. And there are also rock formations, rather than intricate coral reef, though there are some undersea caves and coral clusters.
Water temperatures are generally from 75 to 85 degrees, somewhat lower when winds are from the north during the dry season. Wet suits are sometimes required.
Visibility runs up to 80 feet, but can be limited by the same marine microorganisms that make fish so abundant, and by river runoff and silt during the rainiest times. The waters are generally clearest in the Gulf of Papagayo, where there are no river mouths.
Wall and limited reef diving are available off Caño Island, accessible from Drake Bay on the Osa Peninsula, and from Quepos. Some of the densest schools of fish will be seen in this area, among them snapper, grouper, barracuda, eels and rays, along with bright tropical species. Visibility tops out at about 70 feet. Up on the surface, sea turtles, dolphins and whales are common sights.
Coco Island, farther out in the Pacific, has recently opened as a diving area, offering clear views of sperm whales, sting rays, eels, and the large game fish of the area, along with undersea pinnacles. But the real attraction is the chance to view sharks—hammerhead and white-tip, among others. Visibility is usually between 50 and 75 feet, and currents are strong. A ten-night excursion to Coco Island on the 120-foot Okeanos Aggressor (a floating resort with a capacity of 18 divers), including seven dive days, costs $2600 or more—and this does not include air fare to Costa Rica or any accommodations on land.
Diving operators in Costa Rica include:
Bill Beard's Diving Safaris, Apartado 121-5019, Playas del Coco, tel. 672-0012; U.S. 800-779-0055, fax 612-931-0209. rep@godiving.com or diving@sol.racsa.co.cr.
One of the most experienced diving services in Costa Rica, with new diesel-powered boats. Courses and certification upgrades, and package trips based at the hotel are available.
Mario Vargas Expeditions, P. O. Box 194, Playas del Coco, tel. 672-0351.
Rich Coast Diving, Playas del Coco, tel. 672-0176; scuba @divecostarica.com. www.divecostarica.com. U.S.: 1-800-4-DIVING.
Costa Rica Diving, Playa Potrero, tel. 654-4088.
Tango Mar, near Tambor, in southern Nicoya, tel. 683-0124
Río Sierpe Lodge near Drake Bay (P. O. Box 818-1200, Pavas, tel. 220-2121, fax 232-3321) has packages priced from about $200 per day of diving. Diving is also available downriver at the Caballito del Mar Hotel at Drake Bay, tel. and fax 231-5028.
Viajes Tropicales Laura, Limón, tel. 758-2410, occasionally arranges diving along the Caribbean, including wreck diving, but check the equipment here and elsewhere on this coast.
In San José, contact:
Busos del Trópico, Tibás, tel. 236-6135; and Centro de Buceo, Sabanilla road, tel. 224-1887.
Cruceros del Sur,
Sabana Norte, San José, tel. 232-6672.
Represents Okeanos Aggressor to Coco Island, or try calling
256-6428.
Agencies that arrange diving in Costa Rica include:
Landfall Productions, tel. 800-525-3833, fax 510-794-1617, lndfall@aol.com, ecotravel.com/landfall.
Adventure Express, 800-433-0799
Dive Costa Rica, tel. 800-392-6292, info@mayatour.com. Specializes in the Pacific northwest coast of Costa Rica
Adventures, 800-231-7422
Ultimate Dive Travel, 800-737-DIVE
Aggressor Fleet, P. O. Drawer K, Morgan City, LA 70381. Tel. 800-348-2628 or 504-385-2628, fax 384-0817. Operates Okeanos Aggressor to Coco Island
The cruise ship Temptress, mentioned above, offers diving excursions in its water sports programs.
CATCH A FISH
There's great sport fishing in Costa Rica, not only along both coasts, but in mountain streams and lakes as well.
Plenty of world records have been broken. And some fishermen have gone home disappointed. You have to know when the fish are running, and where stocks have been depleted by runoffs and pesticides.
On the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, the most notorious species is the pesky and finicky tarpon. Tarpon are caught between January and June in rivers, lagoons and estuaries, and weigh as much as 100 pounds. While catches have declined in the area off Tortuguero, due to overfishing and possibly the runoff of pesticides used on banana plantations, larger boats have taken fishermen to less-frequented fishing grounds along the San Juan River on the border with Nicaragua. Other species common to the Caribbean are snook, usually weighing over 25 pounds (a world record 53-pound snook was taken in 1978 off Parismina) ; the related and smaller calba, or fat snook; the bass-like machaca and guapote; catfish, mojarra, which resembles a bluegill; kingfish, dorado, jewfish and shark, mackerel, mullet and jack crevalle. All are found in inland waters, even shark, though stocks are said to have declined in recent years, due to sedimentation and contamination by pesticides. Deep-sea fishing in the Caribbean is limited by the unpredictability of storms and heavy surf at river mouths, but some lodges have large boats to get fishermen safely out during calm periods. Species found not too far from shore may include barracuda, jacks, sawfish (sierra), sailfish, tuna, Atlantic marlin, and wahoo.
On the Pacific side, black and blue marlins of up to 1000 pounds are the big attractions, especially up north in the Gulf of Papagayo; along with sailfish, roosterfish, wahoo, rainbow runner, barracuda, a variety of snappers, and jacks, pompano, shark, swordfish, yellowfin tuna, bonito, dorado (mahi-mahi), grouper and corvina, or sea bass. The smaller fish are found in river mouths and estuaries, the larger species out in blue water.
Official fishing propaganda speaks of releases of up to 30 sailfish a day, and while the numbers are fishy, even allowances for reality will leave an assurance of a good catch at most times of the year. Records include more than 1600 billfish landed by 120 fishers in four days; an 87-pound dolphinfish, and dozens of other marks. "Grand slams," landings of three different billfish species, and "super grand slams of sailfish and blue, black and striped marlin, are regular events.
Inland, some of Costa Rica's mountain and lowland streams and lakes hold trout (generally on the small side), guapote, machaca and bobo (related to mullet), as well as smaller fish. Lake Caño Negro, in northern Costa Rica, can be a good spot for huge tarpon, as well as guapote and snook. Inland fishing is permitted all year in Lake Arenal and the Reventazón River; December through August elsewhere.
The most accessible fishing for trout of any size is along the Savegre River at the cabins of the Chacón family (tel. 771-1732. Or, to find a good inland fishing spot, hang out at the bus station of a lowland town at the base of the sierra, such as Villa Neilly. Look for a guy with a fishing rod and discreetly follow him aboard his bus. Stay on for the ascent from the steaming plain, winding back and forth up the face of the mountains, splashing through rushing streams. Take note of where the fisherman gets off, then backtrack, and return the next day.
Fishing equipment is in short supply, so serious anglers should bring their own gear, unless availability is confirmed in advance. Your fishing camp or resort will recommend specific types of rods, reels and line when you reserve. For tarpon fishing—the big attraction on the Caribbean coast—six- to seven-foot rods with 12- to 20-pound line are used. Reels should hold 200 yards of line. For snook and fly fishing, 10- to 12-pound line is enough. Lighter gear is sufficient for guapote and trout in fresh water. For deep-sea fishing, everything is usually provided by the fishing camp or boat operator.
Catch and Release. Most responsible fishing operators in Costa Rica encourage you to return your catch to the sea, and bring home photos, not trophies.
Permits. A permit is required for fishing. If you book a week at a fishing camp, the management will probably take care of this detail. Otherwise, you'll have to buy a permit at the Dirección de Pesca, Calle 24, Avenida 2, tel. 255-2170. This may have to be further validated at other offices for either river or offshore fishing.
San José-based fishing specialists:
Costa Rica Dreams, P. O. Box 79-4005, San Antonio de Belén, tel. 239-3387, fax 239-3383. Fishing off Quepos and Caño Island.
In-country fishing services and lodges specializing in fishing:
Hotel Flor de Itabo, Playas del Coco, tel. 672-0011.
Hotel El Ocotal, Ocotal, tel. 672-0230.
Guanamar, Puerto Carrillo, tel. 656-0054 (P. O. Box 7-1880, San José, tel. 239-4544. U.S. reservations: tel. 800-245-8420).
Hotel La Guaria, Playa Garza, tel. 680-0784.
Hotel Tango Mar, Tambor, tel. 683-0124.
Hotel Oasis del Pacífico, Playa Naranjo, tel. 641-1555.
Pesca Deportiva Conchal, Playa Conchal, tel. 654-4419.
Pesca Deportiva Ambos Mares, tel. 235-7762.
Pesca Deportiva Bahía Flamingo, Flamingo Beach, tel. 234-0906.
Pesca Deportiva Puerto Carrillo, tel. 656-0011.
North-South Sportfishing, Quepos, tel. 253-9222.
Río Parismina Lodge, Parismina (U.S. reservations: tel. 800-338-5688 or 210-824-4442).
Río Colorado Lodge, Barra del Colorado (P. O. Box 5094-1000, San José, tel. 232-4063; U.S. reservations: tel. 800-243-9777).
Casa Mar Fishing Lodge, Barra del Colorado (U.S. reservations: tel. 800-327-2880 or 305-664-4615, fax 305-664-3692.
Silver King Lodge, Barra del Colorado, tel. 381-1403 (U.S. reservations: tel. 800-847-3474).
Aventuras Tilarán, Tilarán, tel. 695-5008. Lake Arenal fishing.
Finca Zacatales, tel. 771-1732. Trout fishing.
More details on these lodges are given in this book in the coverage by regions.
Agencies that book fishing trips to Costa Rica:
World Wide Sportsman, P. O. Drawer 787, Islamorada, FL 33036, tel. 800-327-2880 or 305-664-4615, fax 305-664-3692.
Dockside Tours, 339 Hickory Ave., Harahan, LA 70123, tel. 800-235-3625.
DESCEND TO THE NETHERWORLD
Concealed under the undulating dry hills of Barra Honda National Park, in the Nicoya Peninsula, lie dozens of caverns, most still unexplored in modern times, some plunging to depths of more than 600 feet. The surface of this ancient seabed is pocked with holes where cave roofs have collapsed, allowing access—after strenuous hikes—to the cathedrals formed over the eons by the clandestine chemistry conducted below, while the peninsula slid and lifted alongside the mainland.
Grotesque skeletal remains are merged into stalagmites or washed over with frozen calcium carbonate streams. Bats, rats, insects and blind fish inhabit an underscape of "soda straws," "cave grapes," and stone "popcorn." Occasionally a human slithers down a rope above, but infrequently, for the great drop through nothingness discourages visits from above.
The caves of Barra Honda may be visited in the company of park rangers only. Contact the National Park Service at the Bolívar Park Zoo in San José. Tours with descents into the caves are operated by Turinsa, Avenida 3, Calles 3/5, San José, tel. 221-9185. Do not attempt the trip on your own. The park is parched for much of the year, with little shelter, and some visitors have perished.
To the north of Lake Arenal, the Venado Caves underlie the Guanacaste mountain range, and are still being shaped by underground streams, rapids and cascades. Visits are arranged by hotels and travel agencies in Tilarán and Fortuna.
RAFT THE RAPIDS
Here's the bottom line: There's plenty of water in Costa Rica's rivers, you can go rafting somewhere in the country at almost any time of year, the sights along the way—exotic macaws, flocks of monkeys, sugarcane fields, dense rain forest trailing vines into the water—are available on comparable trips nowhere else, and, maybe best of all, the water is warm.
There are runs in Costa Rica for every skill level. A trip along the Corobicí River in Puntarenas province—a stereotypical slow-moving tropical river—affords ample opportunity for birding and observing streamside life. It's rated class I-II—unchallenging. On the Atlantic slope, the Reventazón River (Class III), with plenty of rapids separated by sedate stretches, is considered world-class, but parts are suitable for beginners. The Pacuare (Class IV), precipitous, with difficult rapids, rushes through gorges billowing with exuberant growth. According to one rafting guide, these three are "technical" rivers—you have to make successive crucial moves in each rapid. But they're not expert runs—if you flip over, you'll be washed onward into deeper, safer water. The General, in the south-central Pacific region (class III-IV), with more volume than any California river, has continuous roller-coaster waves, whirlpools, gorges punctuated by waterfalls, and varying water levels. There are few bugs along the General, which can be rafted for six months of the year.
One-day beginners' trips are offered by travel agencies in San José for about $85. Week-long expeditions on several rivers, camping along the way or staying in hotels as appropriate, with some sightseeing, cost about $900. The organizers provide raft, paddles, helmet, and life jacket. Visitors should wear a bathing suit and tennis shoes, and take a change of clothing.
Agencies that arrange rafting trips in Costa Rica include:
Mariah Wilderness Expeditions, P.O. Box 248, Point Richmond, CA 94807, tel. 800-4-MARIAH or 510-233-2303, fax 510-233-0956, www.mariahwe.com.
Voyagers International, P. O. Box 915, Ithaca, NY 14851, tel. 800-633-0299 or 607-273-4321, fax 607-273-3873.
Among Costa Rican rafting specialists are:
Costa Sol Rafting, tel. 293-2150.
Ríos Tropicales, Paseo Colón, Calles 38, Colón/Avenida 2 (P. O. Box 472-1200, Pavas), tel. 233-6455.
Aventuras Naturales, Avenida Central, Calles 33/35, tel. 225-3939, fax 253-6934,800-514-0411, avenat@racsa.co.cr. Rafting, mountain biking.
Safaris Corobicí, Cañas, tel. and fax 669-1091. Unlike most other rafting companies, Safaris Corobicí specializes in float trips on easy-going lowland rivers. Participants need not paddle.
KAYAK THE RIVERS AND THE SURF
River kayaking trips most often are an easy float down the Bebedero River through the marshy and jungly Palo Verde Reserve in the northwestern lowlands, or along the Sarapiquí in the northern lowlands. More ambitious trips take you paddling from beach to beach along the rocky Pacific coast. A motorized mother ship provides security and delivers camping equipment and goodies. The wild stuff—shooting class VI rapids on the Reventazón River—isn't for casual visitors, though many competition kayakers spend the winter training in Costa Rica, and trips can be arranged on the same tamer rapids used on day rafting outings from San José.
Kayaking specialists include:
Rancho Leona, La Virgen de Sarapiquí, tel. 761-1019, with trips on jungle rivers north of San José. (see page 447)
Ríos Tropicales, Paseo Colón, Calles 38, Colón/Avenida 2 (P. O. Box 472-1200, Pavas), tel. 233-6455.
Kayaking trips are arranged by:
Mariah Wilderness Expeditions, P.O. Box 248, Point Richmond, CA 94807, tel. 800-4-MARIAH or 510-233-2303, fax 510-233-0956, www.mariahwe.com.
Kayaks are also widely available at seaside resorts in northwestern Costa Rica, such as the all-inclusive Blue Bay Resort. Farther south, the surf can be more unpredictable, and kayaks, if available, should be used with caution.
RIDE A BIKE
Ascend to the top of a volcano, look around, and start down! Or set out from San José . . . it's all downhill, to the east and west. Take your bike along from home, with proper precautions for packing, or rent one when you get to San José.
Costa Rica is a mountainous country, but that doesn't make it a tough go for mountain biking. Distances between overnight stopping points need never be more than 50 kilometers, unless you want a longer day. Roadside refreshment is available at shops and eateries everywhere. Buses will pick up you and your bike when you don't want to re-trace your steps, or when the ascent back to San José looks a little too strenuous.
Latin America on Bicycle, by Jean-Pierre Panet, published by Passport Press, is essential reading material for prospective cyclists in Costa Rica. Included are dozens of useful tips on everything from getting your bike on and off the plane without damage, to health tips. Included is a chapter about a cycling trip in Costa Rica.
SURF THE PERFECT WAVE
Surfing is not my field of expertise. But according to information supplied by the Costa Rica Tourist Board, steady winds give the northern Pacific coast good waves from early December through April. The mouth of the Barranca River, near Puntarenas, is known for the longest left wave in the world, but the water is filthy. Tamarindo, to the north, is cleaner, if more tame. Conditions are usually better at nearby Playa Grande ("fine beach break"), or farther up at Roca Bruja (Witch's Rock), in Santa Rosa National Park.
In the southern Pacific coastal region, there are said to be high waves throughout the year. Surfing tournaments are held at Playa Hermosa, north of Jacó, and at Manuel Antonio, near Quepos. Pavones, down near the Panamanian border, has become home to some expatriate surfers who have found the perfect wave. The best waves roll in this area from April through October.
On the Caribbean, around Limón and to the south, there are good waves from December through February and June through August. Caution and skill are required in this area, as high waves break over coral reefs. Isla Uvita, reachable by boat from Limón, sometimes has surfable waves, but the best is the Salsa at Puerto Viejo.
Bring your own board by all means. If you can't, one outfitter is Mango, tel. 225-1067, in San Pedro, east of San José, and there are sur shops with rental boards in Puntarenas, Tamarindo, Jacó, Quepos and Cahuita.
And to keep up on the very latest in Costa Rican surfing, read the column by Mark Kelly in Costa Rica Today.
Need a point-by-point breakdown of where to find a right and left point break, or where the sharks will find you if you're not careful? Request the pamphlet titled Take a Break Point from the Costa Rica Tourist Board. But I won't keep you hanging regarding your safety. The wide sweep of beach along the Caribbean, from limón northward, is shark-infested, as are the waters crashing into the osa Peninsula on the Pacific side, where you'd probably be nuts to go surfing in any case.
SLEEP OUT
Camping is not a traditional outdoorsy activity in Costa Rica, not least because the outdoors are often viewed as dangerous. And imported equipment, from tents to sleeping bags to good backpacks, can be expensive.
The most obvious places in which to camp are national parks, which usually have sleeping spaces supplied with outhouses and showers.
Organized private campsites are found at Jacó. These have more in common with trailer parks than with getting back to nature.
When camping on a beach or in the countryside, always ask permission if there's anybody around, and offer to pay. You might find some unexpected hospitality. And I won't lecture you about packing out your garbage.
RIDE A HORSE
Horses are available, for those who will ride them, almost anywhere in Costa Rica. Knowledgeable folk are not put off by the small, local animals, known as criollos, which are bred to get a job done without consuming excess feed; though larger, more well known breeds—Arabians, Morgans—will also be found. Costa Rican horses can have problems with persons of weight, so if you're over 200 pounds, make sure you advise the agency or operator.
Riding rates can range from $5 per hour to $75 for a day outing to $150 for an overnight trip.
Among regions and lodges that offer equestrian excursions:
Guanacaste: most hotels, and private operators in Monteverde; Hacienda La Pacífica, Cañas; Albergue de Tilarán and Puerto San Luis, Tilarán; Hotel Las Espuelas, Liberia; Hacienda Guachipelín; Hacienda Los Inocentes; Hotel Flor de Itabo, Playas del Coco
Nicoya: Villa Serena, Junquillal; Hotel Rancho Suizo, Nosara; Hotel Oasis del Pacífico, Playa Naranjo; Hotel La Hacienda, Tambor; Hotel Tango Mar
In or near San José, horseback excursions are available from a number of farms, and can be booked through hotel travel agencies for up to $100 for a day's ride.
RIDE THE WIND
Get set for takeoff! World-class windsurfing attracts more and more Costa Ricans and foreigners to Lake Arenal. Winds are steady out of the east at 20 to 30 knots, and water temperature is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The lake is 1800 feet above sea level and 20 miles long, and waves are usually no higher than three feet.
Hotels that have equipment ready at Lake Arenal include the Tilawa Viento Surf, P. O. Box 92, Tilarán, tel. 695-5050 or 800-851-8929; Rock River Lodge, tel. 222-4547, Puerto San Luis, Tilarán, tel. 695-5750; and The Art of Fun, a sports shop and tour operator, tel. and fax 695-5008.
Playa Tambor Beach Resort (U.S. reservations tel. 800-858-0606) and several hotels at Tamarindo also have equipment.
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